Two Steps Forward, One Step Back

As proud as I am today to call myself an American, I am ashamed to call myself a Californian.

Barack Obama is the new President Elect. What an amazing, historic event. Words fail me when I try to describe just how happy and proud I am that my home country reached the evolutionary point where this can happen.

But then I turn my eyes to the state of my birth, California. It has always been considered a trend setting state with liberal views and an unquestioned acceptance of people regardless of their race, religion, sex or sexual orientation.   However I am watching the votes come in for Proposition 8.

A “Yes” vote for Proposition 8 is a vote to put a (state) constitutional ban on gay marriages.  And right now, as I type this the “Yes” votes are winning.  How long ago was it that cross-race marriages were treated with the same level of bigotry? We can elect a black man as President but we can’t accept that two loving people might want to get married, regardless of their sex?

California, I am ashamed to call you my home.  And my heart and hopes goes out to all the people affected by this tragic onslaught of fear and bigotry.

In China, I witnessed something very promising.  Something that filled me with hope for this country that has become my home away from home.

I was invited to attend an America Votes party held by the American Chamber of Commerce here in Guangzhou, China.  The event was held in a large ballroom at the China Hotel.  

When I got the invite, I thought that it would be just a group of 20 or so expats sitting around watching the election results and talking politics.  Since that sounded like more fun than sitting behind my office desk I decided to go.

When I walked into the room it was filled with hundreds of people.  Hundreds of Chinese people. And of course the 20-30 expats who actually had the right to vote in the election they were watching the results of.

By the entry door were several large baskets filled with buttons for McCain & Obama.  The Obama buttons went very, very quickly and the McCain buttons were practically untouched.  It was easy to see who this group was hoping for.

The American Chamber of Commerce even setup mock election booths so the Chinese people could participate in the voting experience.  Even though they knew their votes would not officially matter, it did not stop them from cueing up in long lines to place their vote.

While I stood there talking with my expat friends we were constantly approached by groups of Chinese university students and other Chinese people who all wanted to hear our views on who we voted for, why we voted for them and about the democratic process in general.

It was amazing to me just how eager they all were to see how this election went, how eager they were to see the restoration of the American reputation and how it would affect their lives and the future of their own country.  I was very proud of every person I spoke with today.  Their courage and desire to open their minds really say a lot about the promise of China’s future.

Having Barack Obama elected President shows how far America has come as a country and how dedicated they are to making it a country that the world looks up to once again.  However, the passing of Proposition 8 (the gay marriage ban) in California shows how very, very far we have got left to go.

Today America has shown that it too is like our newest President. It isn’t perfect and it will make mistakes (sometimes huge ones) but overall, it tries to do the right thing.

Hallo-what?

Halloween was one of my favorite holidays when I lived in the US.  I always looked forward to either dressing up or handing out candy to visiting kids, or doing both.

Halloween would always start with a visit to the store or a local farmers field so that I could purchase a few suitable pumpkins for carving.  Every pumpkin was screaming out a design that suited its particular shape or coloring.  However, my talent at carving pumpkins was never good enough for some of the more challenging designs that true pumpkin artists are capable of doing.

The exception to this of course was a few years ago.  I actually found blue prints and tools for making cool pumpkins. It had templates that you could rub onto the pumpkin and a saw that you could use to cut out the intricate designs.  I ended up making a very cool looking pumpkin that had a skeleton breaking out of it and a few others.  

Then, of course, there was always the fun of eating all of the candy that was left over because you ‘accidentally’ bought too much. Again.

But now that I am living in China, Halloween is not really celebrated here.  Only in a few very small expat communities will you find children dressing up. But even then the kids don’t go door to door.  Instead they go to closed parties where they can get their candy fix.

If kids here tried to go door to door shouting trick or treat while wearing masks and holding out pillow cases, they would be greeted by mostly stunned looks, several people who would be calling the police and maybe a BBQed chicken foot if they were lucky.

And pumpkins? They exist here, but they are all very small.  Too small to really make a cool carving from.

So how did I spend my children’s first Halloween? I spent it on a business trip to Hong Kong. Another place where kids to not trick-or-treat.  But man, do they use it as an excuse to party.  Of course, Hong Kong-ers will use just about any excuse to have a party.

I find myself in a kind of strange holiday-state.  Without the constant sensory input of American holidays I very easily can miss them without notice.  Christmas, Thanksgiving, Halloween, Independence Day, etc.. all go by with barely a thought.

On the other side, because I don’t speak or read Chinese, I get very little sensory input about Chinese holidays. So it is very hard for me to work up any kind of enthusiasm over them.  Mostly, Chinese holidays are painful because they are days I have to pay my employees not to work. But being a boss here is a subject for another day.

So it is kind of strange how quickly we lose our attachment to holidays when we don’t have the constant reminders around us. Kind of makes me a little sad. When I have the time to think about it.

Makes me wonder what traditions/holidays my boys will grow up forming attachments too.

BREAKING NEWS – MESSAGE FROM THE QUEEN!

To the citizens of the United States of America from Her Sovereign Majesty Queen Elizabeth II

In light of your failure in recent years to nominate competent candidates for President of the USA and thus to govern yourselves, we hereby give notice of the revocation of your independence, effective immediately. (You should  look up ‘revocation’ in the Oxford English  Dictionary.) Her Sovereign Majesty Queen Elizabeth II will resume monarchical duties over all states, commonwealths, and territories (except Kansas , which she does not fancy). Your new Prime Minister, Gordon Brown, will appoint a Governor for America without the need for further elections. Congress  and the Senate will be disbanded.  A questionnaire may be circulated next year to determine whether any of you noticed.

To aid in the transition to a British Crown dependency, the following  rules are introduced with immediate effect:

  1. The letter ‘U’ will be reinstated in words such as ‘colour,’ ‘favour,’ ‘labour’ and ‘neighbour.’ Likewise, you will learn to spell ‘doughnut’ without skipping half the  letters,  and the suffix ‘-ize’ will be replaced by the suffix  ‘-ise.’ Generally, you will be expected to raise your vocabulary to acceptable levels.  (look up ‘vocabulary’).
  2. Using the same twenty-seven words interspersed with filler noises such as ”like’ and ‘you know’ is an unacceptable and inefficient form of communication. There is no such thing as U.S. English. We will let Microsoft know on your behalf.  The Microsoft spell-checker will be  adjusted to take into account the reinstated letter ‘u” and the  elimination of  ‘-ize.’
  3. July 4th will no longer be celebrated as a holiday.
  4. You will learn to resolve personal issues without using guns, lawyers, or therapists.  The fact that you need so many lawyers and therapists shows that you’re not quite ready to be independent.   Guns should only be used for shooting grouse.  If you can’t sort things out without suing someone or speaking to a therapist, then you’re not ready to shoot grouse.
  5. Therefore, you will no longer be allowed to own or carry anything more dangerous than a vegetable peeler.  Although a permit will be required if you wish to carry a vegetable peeler in public.
  6. All intersections will be replaced with roundabouts, and you will start driving on the left side with immediate effect.  At the same time, you will go metric with immediate effect and without the benefit of conversion tables.   Both roundabouts and metrication will help you understand the British sense of humour.
  7. The former USA will adopt UK prices on petrol (which you have been calling gasoline) of roughly $10/US gallon.  Get used to it.
  8. You will learn to make real chips.  Those things you call French fries are not real chips, and those things you insist on calling potato chips are properly called crisps.  Real chips are thick cut, fried in animal fat,and dressed not with catsup but with vinegar.
  9. The cold, tasteless stuff you insist on calling beer is not actually beer at all.  Henceforth, only proper British Bitter will be referred to as beer, and European brews of known and accepted provenance will be referred to as Lager.  Australian beer is also acceptable, as they are pound for pound the greatest sporting nation on earth and it can only be due to the beer.  They are also part of the British Commonwealth – see what it did for them.  American brands will be referred to as Near-Frozen Gnat’s Urine, so that all  can be sold without risk of further confusion.
  10. Hollywood will be required occasionally to cast English actors as good guys.   Hollywood will also be required to cast English actors to play English characters.   Watching Andie Macdowell attempt English dialogue in Four Weddings and a Funeral was an experience akin to having one’s ears removed with a cheese grater.
  11. You will cease playing American football.  There is only one kind of proper football; you call it soccer.  Those of you brave enough will, in time, be allowed to  play rugby (which has some similarities to American football, but does not involve stopping for a rest every twenty seconds or wearing full kevlar body armour like a bunch of nancies).
  12. Further, you will stop playing  baseball.  It is not reasonable to host an event called the World Series for a game which is not played outside of America .  Since only 2.1% of you are aware there is a world beyond your borders, your error is understandable.  You will learn cricket, and we will let you face the Australians first to take the sting out of their deliveries.
  13. You must tell us who killed JFK.   It’s been driving us mad.
  14. An internal revenue agent (i.e. tax collector) from Her Majesty’s Government will be with you shortly to ensure the acquisition of all monies due (backdated to 1776).
  15. Daily Tea Time begins promptly at 4 p.m. with proper cups, with saucers, and never mugs, with high quality  biscuits (cookies) and cakes; plus strawberries (with cream) when in season.

God  Save the Queen!

(This was sent to me by a German friend. Which, in itself is pretty funny if you think about it.)

Oh lord, its hard to be humble

As a gwailo (Cantonese for Foreign Monster) living in China one of the most common questions I get asked by locals and foreigners alike is “What’s it like to be so damn perfect?”

What? It’s true. Okay, so that is the most common question I get asked in my dreams. In reality the most common question is “Do you speak Chinese?”

That seems like a simple question but when you realize that China has 2 main languages (Mandarin and Cantonese) and hundreds of other dialects you soon realize that there is no such language as “Chinese”. However, luckily in my case, I can respond with a very simple “No” since I don’t speak any of the languages that make up “Chinese”.

I have studied Mandarin off and on for about 3 years now.  Way more “Off” than “On” and I have managed to pick up about 100 words so far that I can actually say with some degree of accuracy.

Over the course of my life I have lived in many different countries and I have learned little bits of the local languages where ever I was.  In all cases the first two things that I learn is always the same.  I learn how to count to 10 and I learn how to order a beer.  So far it has been a very useful duo to learn.

Before I moved to China I started learning Mandarin, which is the “official” language of China.  I figured I couldn’t go wrong learning Mandarin if I wanted to live and work in China.  Of course, as luck would have it I ended up moving to the part of China where everyone speaks in Cantonese.  Nice.

Mandarin is tough enough with its 5 different tones (more if you talk with linguistic Nazi’s) for every word but at least you have lots of cool tools out there to help you learn Mandarin.  And there is even an official western way of writing the words.

However, Cantonese is a different animal all together.  For each word there is 9, count them, 9 tones for each word.  There is no westernized way of spelling them and for most of the words I don’t think there is a western way of even saying them.

None the less, some people have humorous ways of trying to teach people how to speak Cantonese.
While not speaking the language here in China is a bit of a handicap it really hasn’t slowed me down at all.  As a matter of fact, I am now a better pantomime artist than Marcel Marceau.

Learning the language in any country that you live in is not really necessary to do.  However, it does make life much simpler and it shows that you respect the locals enough to want to learn how to communicate with them.

What it all boils down to is that I need to stop being such a lazy bastard and start learning the language.  If my baby boys can do it, so can I.  I hope.

Things to do in Guangzhou

A friend back in the US asked me to describe a typical week so he could better understand how I live my life here. And since I am a lazy blogger I thought I would repeat it here.

First a little precursor. When I lived in the US I was pretty much an anti-social hermit. My life mainly consisted of work and goofing around on my computer. Getting out was something I rarely did.

So here is a day by day listing of my week.

Saturday: Up at 7:00. Get my breakfast and play a little with my baby boys. I normally spend most of the time being amazed at just how much they change from day to day.
11:00 I am on an hour long bus/taxi tide to the city where my wife and I meet our running club. Http://www.gzh3.com Check it out to see the strange stuff that goes on.
19:00 Running is done time for dinner with friends. I normally get back home at 22:00. Just in time to go to sleep.

Sunday: Up at 6:30, have my breakfast and play with the kids. Around 10:00 I am out the door with my wife and doing shopping for various things (normally baby stuff).
We get back home around 15:00 and I play with my kids a little more. The I head up to my home office and do a bit of work, play a computer game or watch a little tv. (TV here is either by a satelite feed from the philipines or by watching shows online.)
19:00 I have dinner and help get the kids to sleep. Then the rest of the night is spent watching the movie of the moment with my wife. Then it is time for sleep.

Monday: I am up at 6:00, grab my breakfast (which normally is a big bun and a diet coke) and start my drive to the office. The babies are normally sleeping so I don’t get to see them.
I work until about 20:00 and then I drive home. The babies are normally sleeping by then so I don’t get to see them. Talk with the wife about my day and then off to sleep.

Tuesday: Basically a repeat of Monday.

Wednesday: Starts out the same but at night I attend a social networking meeting for people in the Internet industry. Business here is all about who you know. I would be out of business if it wasn’t for networking.
I spend my evening talking with 30-40 strangers and exchanging business cards. When I get home it is normally around 24:00. Nothing else to do but grab a few hours sleep.

Thursday: Same as Monday.

Friday: Starts out the same but by 11:00 I am on a 2 hour train ride to Hong Kong. Once I get there I have time for a quick lunch then it is meetings with clients till about 20:00.
Then I have the chance to call up some Hong Kong friends and go out for dinner and drinks. This will normally go on till about 03:00. Then off to my hotel room for a few hours of sleep before I am on an 8:30 train back to guangzhou so I can go running with my wife.

So that is a pretty typical week for me. I don’t go to Hong Kong every week but I do go often enough where I needed to add extra pages to my passport.

Blogging is hard to find the time for but I do it when I can. This post is being written on my phone while I sit on the train.

Here are a couple of pictures from my window:

Waiting for a train

I am sitting in the Hong Kong train station waiting for my train back to Guangzhou. And I am also testing out this remote blogging application on my iPhone.

Here are a couple of photos.

Happy Birthday China!

It is “National Day” here in China.  That means lots of fireworks tonight.  Fireworks are great and all, but in my neighborhood they literally don’t stop until sunrise.  And even then it just kind of slows down to the random chain of firecrackers going off.

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9 Days Off

Monday is the start of the National holiday here in China.  That means that there is a mandatory 7 day vacation for most everyone in the country at the same time.  1,600,000,000 people all on vacation at the same time.  What can go wrong?

The way they get their 7 day vacation here is kind of odd.  Basically, it is a 3 day vacation, but they “borrow” a weekend” to fill in the other 2 work days, hence giving them a total of 7 days off (3 day vacation + 2 days from borrowed weekend + 2 days of real weekend).  Simple, huh?

Now, in order to borrow this weekend they need to balance the books by making everyone work a weekend.  So before the 7 day vacation comes a 7 day work week.  Working the weekend is a way of getting the “borrowed” weekend that extends their 3 day vacation into 7.

Everyone clear on that?  Good.

In my office, I just say “screw it”, throw up my hands and admit that I hate working weekends.  So, my staff lucks out and doesn’t have to work a 7 day week.  So they actually get 9 days off rather than 7.

That will give them a bit of a jump on their travel plans.  Since it is customary for people to go back to their hometowns on the holiday they will all be jumping on busses that will take up to 30 hours to drive them home.  Just so they can turn around a few days later and spend another 30 hours on a bus coming back.

Now, I am faced with 9 days off.  What adventure do you think I have planned?

That’s right!  You guessed it.  I will be doing nothing but staying at home, playing with my kids and computer games.  Then later in the year when the rest of the country isn’t invading every other part of the country I will take some much needed time off someplace that is not in China.

So if you are planning on coming to China between now and October 5th, I have one piece of advice.  Don’t.

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My Daily Commute

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Spork, spork, spork…

Tonight I will go home and do something that I haven’t done since I came to China over 2 years ago.  I will be having a steak and, wait for it, eating it with a real fork & steak knife!  How cool is that? 

No longer will I have to give into the pain of eating a steak with a fondue fork and a butter knife.  I will be able to cut through a juicy steak in about 3 strokes rather than the 20 I have become acustumed too.  

Happy, happy.  Joy, joy.

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